The way fat is measured in all cheese is on the basis of "fat in dry matter" or F/DM. This means that after all of the water is removed and just the solids left behind, this is how much of those solids is fat. As the water is removed, the relative percentage of fat, of course, is increased, since it is left behind in the cheese.
The primary reason for using this F/DM is actually a means to measure fat in food to help people understand just how much fat is being consumed, since water in the equation would make the percentage fat quite meaningless. The idea is to compare apples to apples here.
Therefore, in a cheese such as a high fat Brie or a double or triple cream cheese that normally has a moisture content of 45% so the actual fat level is already down to about 40% of what you are actually consuming when the moisture is factored back in.
By comparison a Cheddar can be 22-28%.
From this, you can easily see that the milk going into the vat to make a triple creme cheese must obviously be enriched with cream (unless you are working with a ewe's milk with high butterfat already) this means adding some high butterfat cream to the milk.
For example, if a normal pasteurized milk at 3.25% were to be used to make a triple cream cheese you could use:
- 10-12 oz. of heavy cream (36-40% butterfat)
- to 118 oz. of the 3.25% milk
- for 1 gallon of milk at 6% butterfat
That same 6% becomes 75% cream when all moisture is removed.
In Using Raw Milk...
In my cheese room here, I often use a raw Jersey milk which averages about 4.8% fat for making small Bries. When I consider my yield from this milk and the final moisture, this makes a cheese of about 60% F/DM which definitely pushes it into the 'double creme' category.
If I want to push this over the edge into 'triple creme' territory, I would only need to add about 4-5 oz of the heavy cream to 124 oz. of this 4.8% milk.
BUT, for this recipe we are going to make things easy to get and use pasteurized whole milk from the store and some heavy cream as noted below in the guidelines.